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samenvatting Mode & design
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MODE EN DESIGNInhoudsopgave
2.1. Van lappen naar stoffen.........................................................................................................7
2.2. Modegeschiedenis als inspiratie............................................................................................7
2.3. De modepers..........................................................................................................................8
2.4. Mode in 19de eeuw.................................................................................................................9
Reactie vanuit de mode: Haute Couture.........................................................................................................9
Reactie vanuit de kunst: Arts and Crafts Movement......................................................................................9
2.5. Mode en identiteit.................................................................................................................9
HOOFDSTUK 3: SUBCULTUREN, ANTICULTUREN, EMANCIPATIE EN REVOLTE (PRE-WWI). .10
3.1. Weeldewetten in het Oude Romeinse Rijk...........................................................................10
3.2. Deugd en trouw, macht en rijkdom – symboliek in klederdracht.........................................10
Portret Arnolfini en vrouw door Van Eyk (15 de eeuw)...................................................................................10
Portret van een vrouw door Lippi (15de eeuw)..............................................................................................10
Portret van een Edeldame door Fontana (16 de eeuw)..................................................................................11
The Court of Gonzaga door Mantegna (15de eeuw)......................................................................................11
Henry VIII door Holbein (16de eeuw).............................................................................................................11
3.3. Het Franse hof – Rococo.......................................................................................................11
3.4. Frankrijk na de Revolutie.....................................................................................................11
Hervorming vrouwen- en mannenkostuums................................................................................................11
3.5. Schotland – Tartan...............................................................................................................12
3.6. Romantiek & Dandyisme......................................................................................................12
Dandyisme.....................................................................................................................................................12
Romantiek......................................................................................................................................................12
Amelia Jenks Bloomer...................................................................................................................................13
Dress Reform - Dr. Gustav Jaeger..................................................................................................................13
Rational Dress Society...................................................................................................................................13
3.7. Gesamtkunstwerk................................................................................................................13
William Morris (grondlegger gesamtkunstwerk)..........................................................................................13
Henry Van De Velde.......................................................................................................................................13
Gustav Klimt en Emilie Flöge.........................................................................................................................13
Paul Poiret.....................................................................................................................................................14
3.8. Russische Revolutie..............................................................................................................14
3.9. Futurisme.............................................................................................................................14
4.1. Emancipatie van de vrouw...................................................................................................15
Evolutie van de bhs........................................................................................................................................15
New Look.......................................................................................................................................................17
Schockgolf 60s...............................................................................................................................................17
4.2. Controversie vandaag de dag...............................................................................................17
4.3. Emancipatie van zwarte personen.......................................................................................18
4.4. Emancipatie van Holebi’s.....................................................................................................18
HOOFDSTUK 5 – MODE IN DE 20STE EEUW.......................................................................20
5.1. Europa in de 19de eeuw........................................................................................................20
Politiek en maatschappelijk klimaat in Europa.............................................................................................20
1
, Begin Haute Couture.....................................................................................................................................20
1. House of Worth.............................................................................................................20
5.2. La Belle Epoque (1880-1914)................................................................................................20
Maatschappelijke en artistieke veranderingen.............................................................................................20
2. Maatschappelijk:..........................................................................................................20
3. Kunst:...........................................................................................................................21
Mode in La Belle Epoque...............................................................................................................................21
1. Jacques Doucet.............................................................................................................21
2. Trends...........................................................................................................................21
3. Nieuwe ontwikkelingen................................................................................................21
4. Belang van sport en vrije tijd........................................................................................21
Emancipatiestrijd van vrouwen.....................................................................................................................21
Populaire stijlen en designers........................................................................................................................22
1. Paul Poiret:...................................................................................................................22
2. Jeanne Paquin..............................................................................................................22
3. House of Worth.............................................................................................................22
4. Mariano Fortuny...........................................................................................................22
5. Callot Soeurs.................................................................................................................23
5.3. WOI en the roaring 20s........................................................................................................23
WOI (1914-1918)...........................................................................................................................................23
Na WOI (1919-1929)......................................................................................................................................23
1. Maatschappij................................................................................................................23
2. Kunst............................................................................................................................24
Mode na de eerste wereldoorlog..................................................................................................................24
Populaire stijlen en designers........................................................................................................................24
1. Garçonne en de Flapper girls.........................................................................................24
2. Coco Chanel..................................................................................................................24
3. Jeanne Lanvin...............................................................................................................25
4. Jean Patou....................................................................................................................25
5.4. De jaren 30...........................................................................................................................25
Maatschappij.................................................................................................................................................25
1. Sport en vrije tijd..........................................................................................................25
2. Architectuur..................................................................................................................25
3. Kunst............................................................................................................................26
Mode in de jaren 30......................................................................................................................................26
Populaire stijlen en designers........................................................................................................................26
1. Terugkeren van vrouwelijkheid.....................................................................................26
2. Bont..............................................................................................................................26
3. Pullover........................................................................................................................26
2
,4. Lucien Lelong................................................................................................................26
5. Nieuwe ontwikkelingen................................................................................................27
6. Accessoires en trends....................................................................................................27
7. Hollywood Glamour......................................................................................................27
8. Politiek en mode (militaire stijl)....................................................................................27
9. Madeleine Vionnet.......................................................................................................28
10. Elsa Schiaparelli..........................................................................................................28
11. Cristobal Balenciaga...................................................................................................28
12. Mainbocher................................................................................................................29
5.5. WOII (1939-1945).................................................................................................................29
Maatschappij.................................................................................................................................................29
Populaire stijlen en designers........................................................................................................................30
1. Jacquard pull................................................................................................................30
2. Magazines....................................................................................................................30
3. Nylonkous.....................................................................................................................30
4. Schoenen......................................................................................................................30
5. Lingerie.........................................................................................................................30
6. Make-up.......................................................................................................................31
7. Valentina Schlee...........................................................................................................31
8. Madame Grès...............................................................................................................31
HOOFDSTUK 6 – MODEGESCHIEDENIS: HAUTE COUTURE EN PRÊT-à-PORTER : 1945-1979 31
6.1 Inleiding................................................................................................................................31
6.2 Algemeen..............................................................................................................................31
6.3 Maatschappij........................................................................................................................32
6.4 Interieur................................................................................................................................32
6.5 Uiting in de mode:.................................................................................................................33
6.6 Terugkeer op de Emancipatie................................................................................................33
6.7 Nieuwe ontwikkelingen........................................................................................................33
6.8 Théatre de la Mode...............................................................................................................34
6.9 Haute- Couture......................................................................................................................34
6.10 Prêt-à-porter.......................................................................................................................34
6.11.1 Eerste reacties op New Look + nieuwe MY na de WOII.....................................................36
6.11.2 Tweede subcultuur/reactie: Rock & Roll:.........................................................................36
6.11.3 Derde subcultuur/reactie: Existentialisten.......................................................................36
6.12 Dior – (Ligne Corolle), New look - 1947...............................................................................37
6.13 Dior – na Dior......................................................................................................................37
Yves Saint Laurent.........................................................................................................................................38
3
, Marc Bohan...................................................................................................................................................38
Gianfranco Ferre............................................................................................................................................39
John Galliano.................................................................................................................................................39
Raf Simons.....................................................................................................................................................39
Maria Grazia Chiuri........................................................................................................................................39
Balenciaga......................................................................................................................................................39
6.14 Jacques Fath........................................................................................................................39
6.15 Hubert De Givenchy............................................................................................................39
Riccardo TISCI for Givenchy...........................................................................................................................40
Claire Wright Keller For Givenchy..................................................................................................................40
6.16 Pierre Balmain.....................................................................................................................40
JAREN 60.....................................................................................................................................40
6.17 INLEIDING...........................................................................................................................40
6.18 START JAREN 60..................................................................................................................41
6.19 Maatschappij:.....................................................................................................................41
JAREN 70.....................................................................................................................................42
Disco..............................................................................................................................................................42
Westwood: Punk...........................................................................................................................................42
De boetiek: London = Nieuwe belangrijke modestad...................................................................................42
6.20 Belangrijke namen over dit onderdeel:...............................................................................42
6.21 Independent Designers.......................................................................................................43
6.22 Pierre Cardin – the geometric guru......................................................................................43
6.23 Paco Rabanne......................................................................................................................44
6.24 André Courrèges.................................................................................................................44
6.25 Yves Saint Laurent – Le Beat Look.......................................................................................44
6.26 YSL 1965-67.........................................................................................................................44
6.27 Karl Lagerfeld......................................................................................................................45
6.28 Sonia Rykiel – The queen of knits........................................................................................45
HOOFDSTUK 7: MODEGESCHIEDENIS: HAUTE COUTURE EN PRET-A-PORTER 1980-1989. . .46
7.1 Inleiding................................................................................................................................46
Belangrijke gebeurtenissen...........................................................................................................................46
Belangrijke ontwerpers jaren 80...................................................................................................................46
Subcultuur.....................................................................................................................................................46
Kleding...........................................................................................................................................................46
7.2 De Japanse revolutie in parijs begin jaren 80........................................................................47
7.3 De Grote Drie :......................................................................................................................47
Kenzo Takada.................................................................................................................................................48
De grote drie:.................................................................................................................................................48
1) Rei Kawakubo – comme des garcons........................................................................................................48
2) Yohi Yamamoto.........................................................................................................................................48
3) Issey Miyake..............................................................................................................................................48
7.4 De zes van Antwerpen...........................................................................................................48
1) Ann Demeulemeester................................................................................................................................49
2) Dries Van Noten........................................................................................................................................49
3) Walter Van Beirendonck...........................................................................................................................49
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