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Samenvatting finishen
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InhoudsopgaveSamenvatting textieltechnologie : finishen .......................................................................................................... 3
Hoofdstuk 1: Algemene begrippen textielchemie ............................................................................................... 3
1. Water .............................................................................................................................................................. 3
1.1 Waterhardheid .............................................................................................................................................. 3
1.2 Izercontaminatie van water ...................................................................................................................... 4
2. Ionen ............................................................................................................................................................... 4
3. Zuren .............................................................................................................................................................. 4
4. Alkaliën/basen ................................................................................................................................................ 5
5. Ph ................................................................................................................................................................... 5
6. Concentratie ................................................................................................................................................... 5
7. Vlotverhoudig ................................................................................................................................................. 5
8. Oppervlaktespanning...................................................................................................................................... 5
9. Detergenten .................................................................................................................................................... 6
10. Natmakers..................................................................................................................................................... 6
11. Dispergeermiddelen ..................................................................................................................................... 6
12. Optische witmakers (azureermiddel) ............................................................................................................ 6
13. Enzymes ........................................................................................................................................................ 7
Hoofdstuk 2: Het voorbehandelen ....................................................................................................................... 7
1. Doelstelling .................................................................................................................................................... 7
2. Voorbehandelingsprocessen op katoen en andere cellulosevezels ................................................................. 7
2.1 Zengen ..................................................................................................................................................... 7
2.2 Ontsterken................................................................................................................................................ 8
2.3 alkalische extractie/kierkoken ................................................................................................................. 9
2.4 Bleken ...................................................................................................................................................... 9
2.5 Merceriseren ............................................................................................................................................ 9
2.6 Trends voor lagere milieu impact .......................................................................................................... 10
2.7 Gecombineerde methodes ...................................................................................................................... 10
3. Voorbehandelingsprocessen op wol ............................................................................................................. 10
3.1 Wassen van ruwe wol ............................................................................................................................ 10
3.2 Carboniseren .......................................................................................................................................... 11
3.3 Wassen ................................................................................................................................................... 11
3.5 Bleken .................................................................................................................................................... 11
4. Voorbehandelingsprocessen op zijde ........................................................................................................... 11
4.1 Ontbasten ............................................................................................................................................... 11
4.2 Verzwaren.............................................................................................................................................. 12
5. Voorbehandelingsprocessen op synthetische vezels ..................................................................................... 12
Hoofdstuk 3: kleuropbreng .......................................................................................................................... 12
1. Inleiding ....................................................................................................................................................... 12
2. Echtheden ..................................................................................................................................................... 13
3. Kleurstoffen en pigmenten ............................................................................................................................ 13
3.1 Historiek ................................................................................................................................................ 13
3.2 Bespreking kleurstofklassen in functie van textielgrondstof ................................................................. 14
Hoofdstuk 4: het verven...................................................................................................................................... 17
, 1. Inleiding ....................................................................................................................................................... 17
2.1 Discontinu verven .................................................................................................................................. 18
2.2 Continu verven ...................................................................................................................................... 18
2.3 Semi-continu verven .............................................................................................................................. 19
3. Verfmachines ................................................................................................................................................ 19
3.1 Algemeen ............................................................................................................................................... 19
3.2 Verven van losse vezels (of wolvezels in lontvorm) ............................................................................. 20
3.3 Verven van garens ................................................................................................................................. 20
3.4 Verven van stoffen................................................................................................................................. 22
4. Garment dye ................................................................................................................................................. 23
5. Co2 of waterloos verven - drydye ................................................................................................................. 24
Hoofdstuk 5: het bedrukken .............................................................................................................................. 24
1. Historiek ....................................................................................................................................................... 24
2. Inleiding ....................................................................................................................................................... 25
3. Drukprincipes ............................................................................................................................................... 25
3.1 directe druk ............................................................................................................................................ 25
3.2 Etsdruk................................................................................................................................................... 25
3.3 Reservedruk ........................................................................................................................................... 25
3.4 Transferdruk .......................................................................................................................................... 25
3.5 Burn out ................................................................................................................................................. 25
3.6 Seersucker.............................................................................................................................................. 25
4. Samenstelling van de pasta/inkten ................................................................................................................ 25
4.1 Watergebaseerde inkten ......................................................................................................................... 25
4.2 Plastisol inkten....................................................................................................................................... 27
4.3 Cmyk ..................................................................................................................................................... 28
- Best op witte achtergrond .................................................................................................................. 28
- Groot aantal kleuren in dots ............................................................................................................... 28
4.4 Discharge inkten (=etsen) ...................................................................................................................... 28
4.5 Transferinkten........................................................................................................................................ 28
5. Bespreking van de druktechnieken ............................................................................................................... 29
5.1 Handdruk ............................................................................................................................................... 29
5.2 Roldruk .................................................................................................................................................. 29
5.3 Zeefdruk (= flat screen printing) ............................................................................................................ 29
5.4 Transferdruk .......................................................................................................................................... 31
5.5 Inktjetdrukken........................................................................................................................................ 33
6. Overige drukmethodes .................................................................................................................................. 35
6.1 Spuitdrukken.......................................................................................................................................... 35
6.2 Batikken................................................................................................................................................. 35
6.3 Ikatten .................................................................................................................................................... 35
7. Printeffecten op t-shirts ................................................................................................................................ 35
7.1 Vlakzeefdruk op t-shirts ........................................................................................................................ 35
7.2 Prints op donkere t-shirts ....................................................................................................................... 36
7.3 Speciale printeffecten ............................................................................................................................ 36
Hoofdstuk 6: het nabehandelen ......................................................................................................................... 40
1. Doelstelling .................................................................................................................................................. 40
2. Mechanische behandelingen ........................................................................................................................ 40
2.1 Kalanderen ............................................................................................................................................. 40
2.2 Sanforiseren ........................................................................................................................................... 41
2.3 Scheren .................................................................................................................................................. 41
2.4 Emeriseren ............................................................................................................................................. 42
2.5 Decateren .............................................................................................................................................. 42
2.6 Ruwen/laineren ...................................................................................................................................... 43
, 2.7 Lasertechnieken ..................................................................................................................................... 43
3. Chemische behandelingen ............................................................................................................................ 43
3.1 Bespreking applicatietechnieken ........................................................................................................... 44
3.2 Functionele chemische finishes ............................................................................................................. 44
Samenvatting textieltechnologie : finishen
Hoofdstuk 1: Algemene begrippen textielchemie
Doel van finishen
- Kledingstuk mooier maken (visuele kenmerken ➔ kleur/print geven)
- Extra functie geven (bv. Waterafstotend maken)
1. Water
Negatief aan waterverbruik:
- Veel reststoffen van chemicaliën in het afvalwater ➔ moet gezuiverd worden
- Water is duur en schaars
- Wordt overal gebruikt in textielindustrie ➔ dient als oplosmiddel voor chemische stoffen
zoals: detergenten, verzachters, enzymes, bleekmiddelen, naoh, kleurstoffen,...
Textielbedrijven gebruiken voorbehandeld grondwater ➔ daarna wordt het gezuiverd en geloosd water
bevat ook ijzer (fe), calcium (ca), magnesium (mg)
1.1 Waterhardheid
Leidingwater bevat kalk ➔ werkt isolerend ➔ niet goed voor de warmteoverdracht van
verwarmingselementen (bv. Weerstanden in verfmachines)
Hard water:
- Ca2+ en mg2+
- Klakaanslag zorgt voor isolatie → zorgt voor een tragere warmte overdracht naar het
water → niet goed voor product
- Vraagt meer detergent bij reiniging
- Geen schuim
- Waterverzachter : water komt binnen en passeert een filter dat negatief geladen is. Deze
negatieve lading neemt ca en mg op → gedeminiraliseerdwater
- Kalkzepen zetten zich af op het wasgoed ➔ de was is grauw en stug
- Veel energie ➔ verhoogt de kosten
- Tast levensduur elektrische toestellen aan
Zacht water:
- Zacht
- Schuimt snel
- Minder energie nodig
Gedeminaliseerd water: onhard ➔ ontdaan van mg en ca ionen ➔ gebeurd door waterverzachters
Waterverzachter:
, - Werkt volgens principe van ionenwisseling
- Het water wordt veranderd in zoutwater met behulp van een harsfilter stappen:
1) Hard water stroomt binnen door wasverzachter
2) Passeert een filter dat negatief geladen is
3) Deze negatieve lading neemt ca en mg op
4) kalkdeeltjes blijven achter in harsfilter
5) Water dat verder stroomt is zacht water
6) Regeneratie: harsfilter wordt gespoeld met een zoutoplossing
Gedestilleerd water: heeft proces ondergaan: zeer zuiver water bekomen door te koken en laten
condenseren ➔ energie nodig ➔ zorgt dat gedestilleerd water duurder is
1.2 Izercontaminatie van water
Max. Ijzerhoeveelheid in water voor behandelen textiel ➔ 0,1 mg/l
➔ zorgt voor roestvlekken, vergeling, gaten
➔ complexeermiddel toevoegen zodat het niet meer reageert op het textiel → wordt afgezonderd
(sequestranten)
Gevolgen ijzercontaminatie:
- Roestvorming op textiel na bleekproces
- Vergeling op ecru weefsel
Wit textielsubstraat ➔ complexeermiddelen toevoegen om fe vast te houden ➔ metaalionen reageren
niet met andere stoffen
Bij elke bewerking (alkalische reactie/bleekreactie/verven) moeten er complexeermiddelen toegevoegd
worden en moet je gebruik maken van onthard water
2. Ionen
Anionen (neg) cl + 1e ➔ cl-
Kationen (pos) na - 1e ➔ na+
Zout = natriumchloride ➔ gebruikt in verfbad om zoveel mogelijk kleurstofparticels in textiel te laten
trekken en niet in bad laten
3. Zuren
H+
sterke h2so4
zwakke ch3cooh, cooh
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