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January here 1
11, 2013
Coastal and Ocean Engineering
John Fenton
TU Wien, Institut für Wasserbau und Ingenieurhydrologie
Karlsplatz 13/E222, A-1040 Wien
fenton@kw.tuwien.ac.at
Abstract
This course introduces maritime engineering, encompassing coastal and ocean engineering. It con-
centrates on providing an understanding of the many processes at work when the tides, storms and
waves interact with the natural and human environments. The course will be a mixture of descrip-
tion and theory – it is hoped that by understanding the theory that the practice will be made all the
easier. There is nothing quite so practical as a good theory.
Table of Contents
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1. Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1.1 Physical properties of seawater . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
2. Introduction to Oceanography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2.1 Ocean currents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2.2 El Niño, La Niña, and the Southern Oscillation . . . . . . . . 10
2.3 Indian Ocean Dipole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
2.4 Continental shelf flow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
3. Tides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.1 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.2 Tide generating forces and equilibrium theory . . . . . . . . 15
3.3 Dynamic model of tides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
3.4 Harmonic analysis and prediction of tides . . . . . . . . . . 19
4. Surface gravity waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
4.1 The equations of fluid mechanics . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
4.2 Boundary conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
4.3 The general problem of wave motion . . . . . . . . . . . 29
4.4 Linear wave theory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
4.5 Shoaling, refraction and breaking . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
4.6 Diffraction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
4.7 Nonlinear wave theories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
5. The calculation of forces on ocean structures . . . . . . . . . . . 55
5.1 Structural element much smaller than wavelength – drag and inertia
forces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
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,Coastal and Ocean Engineering John Fenton
5.2 Structural element comparable with wavelength – diffraction forces . . 57
6. Wind generation of waves and wave prediction . . . . . . . . . . 59
6.1 Predicting waves in deep water . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
7. Tsunami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
7.1 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
7.2 When the first evidence of a tsunami is recession of the sea . . . . 64
7.3 Some aspects of tsunami behaviour . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
7.4 Tsunami generated by the Krakatau eruption of 1883 . . . . . . 67
7.5 An investigation of tsunami risk on an island near the Sunda Strait . . 67
8. Coastal engineering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
8.1 An example of a beach investigation – Mission Bay, Auckland . . . 69
8.2 Coastal management . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
8.3 An example from Spain – Puerto Banus . . . . . . . . . . 84
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