Summary MOOC French cosmetic industry from ingredient to customer in English version
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Course
MOOC l\'industrie cosmétique francaise
Institution
Versailles-Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines (UVSQ)
This is summary of course MOOC French cosmetic industry from ingredient to customer which is taught by group of professors in ISIPCA in partner with non-profit association Cosmetic Valley in English version
SUMMARY OF MOOC
COURSE IN FUN-MOOC
French cosmetic industry from ingredient to customer – English version
MOOC from institution ISIPCA in
https://www.fun-mooc.fr/fr/
partner with Cosmetic Valley
, About this document
This MOOC course is designed by group of teachers from ISIPCA, a prestigious
French grande école specialized in the field of cosmetic, perfumery and fragrance in
Versailles in partner with Cosmetic Valley, a non-profit beauty association. The
course started from October 17th 2022 to December 11th 2022 in the website of FUN
MOOC (France université numérique) which is the French national platform to
promote the use of massive open online courses, similar to the American platform
Coursera.
This course will help you understand the importance of cosmetics in our daily lives
and this for centuries, explain the structure of the skin and hair, comprehend the
different functionalities of cosmetic raw materials, discern the different galenic
forms, know the conditions for placing cosmetic products on the market, identify the
expertise required to develop and market a cosmetic product.
The document is the study note of the course written by me. The note is available in
both French and English languages. I hope this document not only helps you fulfill
your knowledge of cosmetics and perfumery in France but also helps you build up
your career in cosmetic and perfumery industry.
1
, Index
Week 1: Introduction to cosmetics
…………………………………………………………………………………… 3
Week 2: Skin and hair physiology
…………………………………………………………………………………… 5
Week 3: Cosmetic raw materials
…………………………………………………………………………………… 11
Week 4: The art of the formulation
…………………………………………………………………………………… 23
Week 5 and 6: The marketing of cosmetic products
…………………………………………………………………………………… 33
2
,Week 1: Introduction to cosmetics
Original of the word “cosmetic” = kosmeo: beautiful ornament
1. Functional and emotional benefits of cosmetics
- Cosmetic make a positive impact on health, self-image, well-being, self-
confidence and mood
- Cosmetic always focus on 3 characteristics of the emotional fields: well-being,
pleasure or self-esteem
- Emotion is a consequence of the stimulation: positive stimulus triggers pleasure
while aversive stimulus triggers negative emotions.
- Emotion includes main process of organizing thoughts and behaviors. Thus, the
emotion will impact on the brain process and manifestation of thoughts and
behaviors
- Types of emotions: non-verbal communication, mood and well-being, decisive
maker, perception
- Break emotion down into 3 components:
Cognitive or subjective component
Physiological or somatic component
Expressive component
- Example: the usage of anti-wrinkle products will give a perception of complex
emotional dynamics (well-being) and social behavior (self-esteem)
2. The measure of emotional benefits:
- There is no definitive measurement of emotional benefits but it can be measure
in a relative way
- The measurement is based on methodological toolkit and only be valid based on
real situation:
Subjective component: use psychometric methods like standard scales, neuro-
cognitive assessment (memory, reason, etc.)
Expressive component: behavioral science tools (gesture, facial expression)
Somatic component: physiological measurement like cardiac activity and skin
temperature
- Use protocol mix-verbal method to gather information of verbal and non-verbal
- Principle of EmoChar: system of emotional characterization to get simple
subjective scores of appreciations. This method will help us understand more
3
, about emotion based on 7 dimensions: awakening, relaxation, sensuality,
pleasure, tenderness, fun and self-esteem
Example of using EmoChar to evaluate characteristics of a perfume
Source: https://spincontrol.fr/fr/actualites/emochar-caracteriser-l-experience-emotionnelle-d-un-produit
3. The relationship between emotion, skin and brain:
- Emotion relates to skin’s condition
- Psychodermatology is a discipline that has emerged from the convergence of
psychology, neuroscience and dermatology
- Skin has a complex which shares anatomical and functional links with the brain
- The interaction of brain and skin is based on sharing receptors and mediators
(cytokines, neuropeptides)
- Skin is an integral part of a unified body system and the visceral system
- The response of brain to stress mobilize a neurohormonal axis (corticotropic axis)
which will release neurological and hormonal events then the modification will
be occurred inside the body
- Skin is also a real stress integrator to corticotropic axis
- Psychodermatology will be determined based on:
The influence of the skin on mood and emotions
The influence of the mood and well-being on the skin
4
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