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Summary Lecture 4 - 1990s

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These are concise and in-depth notes of the TBB Fashion B lectures written in English. I passed with an 8.5.

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  • May 23, 2018
  • 8
  • 2016/2017
  • Summary
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Lecture 4 – 1990’s


Minimalism
Realism
Grunge (indie metal)
Edgy (avant-gardiste)
Heroin Chic
= Looking inwards, introverted and basic feeling of behaving and appearance

Really different atmosphere from 80’s

Young professionals’ mind :
- reflecting on society and underground influences
- opposed to super perfect (body, hair, suit, cloth) → they thought it was fake and didn’t want that
anymore

The introduction of the term “edgy”
- rawness, edge of appropriateness, nervous
- ex: Kate Moss posing with bare breast for a magazine at the age of 15. (styled by Ward)
- show realness et question appropriateness


From recession, new things emerge. Since 90’s Paris is no longer the major capital of Fashion.

Melanie Ward was the instigator.

Photographers did a lot of bibliographic work, they wanted to show the realness of the decade,
they did a lot of unpaid work for I-D for example and then ended up being part of the fashion elite.
Melanie Ward
→ stylist
→ helped reinvent the London street fashion
→ fashion editor for Harper's Bazaar
→ clean and simple way of posing, wearing cloth

M. Ward worked for
- Helmut Lang
- Calvin Klein (advertising campaign, extremely controversial, with K.Moss again) 1993

= ground breaking & controversial (bc of lack of clothing and sexual suggestiveness)

, still room for experimentation
played around with
- sleeve length
- seams

but still
- clean
- simple
- well-made




Belgian designers (Antwerp 6)
Maison Margiela

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