MAR 200 Exam 3 Questions & Answers 2024/2025
what are the three types of waves? - ANSWERS- Longitudinal (compressional), ex. sound
- transverse (moves up and down to move energy)
ex. sine wave
- Orbital waves (move back and forth and up and down)
ex. ocean waves
3 types of wave-type dis...
wave steepness puts a max on the height of a wave. what steepness means a wave will break? -
ANSWERSwhen steepness (H/L ratio) is greater than 1/7, the wave will break
why can't we calculate wave speed as length / time? - ANSWERSbecause waves are orbital, not linear
what do we use to calculate wave speed? what is the equation? what does g equal? what does L equal?
d = ? why is there 2pi? - ANSWERS- celerity
C = sqrt (gl/2pi tanh(2pid/L))
g = 9.81 M/S^2
L = wavelength
d = depth
2pi because wave moves as orbital
, define a deep water wave - ANSWERSWhen depth is greater than ½ wavelength (d> L/2)
when it's a deep water wave, what is the celerity equation simplified to? why? - ANSWERS-When we
meet this criteria, tanh(2pid/L)= 1
-Left with sqrt.(gL/2pi)
-know that when the numerator is relatively big and denominator relatively small, approaches infinity, or
is just really large. Hyperbolic tan of a really large number is just 1
define a shallow water wave - ANSWERSwhen depth is less than 1/20 of L
when we have a shallow water wave, what is the equation simplified to? why? - ANSWERS-This means
the numerator is really small, and the denominator is really big. Approaches zero
-When L is really big, tanh(x)= x
Simplifies to C= squr.(gd)
speed of a shallow water wave only depends on _____. speed of a deep water wave depends on ______.
- ANSWERS- depth
- wavelength
- where do waves come from?
- waves that flatten out due to surface tension are called ______.
- waves that grow bigger and bigger and eventually flatten out are called ______.
- these two actions are called ______. - ANSWERS- wind
- capillary waves
- gravity waves
- restorative forces
Wave size depends on: - ANSWERS1.Speed of wind (velocity)
2.Fetch: the area over which the wind blows
3.Duration of wind
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