NAUI Master Scuba Diver - Dive Environment what is a Wave Waves are a series of undulating energy forms that move through water while the water remains in the same place What causes waves Waves are generally propagated on the water's surface by wind and move in the same direction as the wind. They are secondarily caused by geological disturbances and by the gravitational influences of the sun and moon. Waves are measured in how many ways 3: height, length and period. height of a wave the vertical distance from its crest (highest point) to its trough (lowest point), and is usually measured in feet or meters. The wavelength is the horizontal distance between successive crests period is? the time required for two successive crests to pass a given point. how do waves move The water particles within a wave move in an orbital motion as the wave form moves forward. Beneath the surface, the orbits become smaller and smaller, finally diminishing to nothing. How do waves develop Water waves develop under the influence of newly formed winds. The air pressure changes on the surface of the water and the frictional drag of the air develops ripples on the surface. These ripples evolve into waves which increase in size with the wind vel ocity, duration and fetch. Fetch is the distance the wind blows over the water. Waves in Shallow Water As a train of waves moves into shallower water, the bottom begins to interfere with the orbital motion of the water moving within the waves. The orbits flatten into ellipses, and the net movement of the water becomes the back -and-forth surge motion. The three types of Tides Diurnal, Semi -diurnal, Mixed
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