US SAILING LEVEL 1 LSR EXAM | 100% VERIFIED | GRADED A+
Center of Lateral Resistance (CLR) - the focal point of all the forces resisting slipping sideways through the water (keel and rudder)
Center of Effort - theoretical focal point of the force generated by the wind acting on the sa...
Center of Lateral Resistance (CLR) - the focal point of all the forces resisting slipping
sideways through the water (keel and rudder)
Center of Effort - theoretical focal point of the force generated by the wind acting on the
sail(s) - main and jib
Drag - slowing force resulting from the friction of a boat moving through water
when a boat is sailing upwind, it slips to - leeward
centerboard's primary responsibility - resistance to side-slipping
rudder's primary function - steering
weather helm - occurs when sailing upwind in strong or puffy wind-force of the mainsail
overpowers the jib- boat turns windward and the rudder is harder to control. correction:
ease main, hike to windward, flatten mainsail, or pull up centerboard (25%)
lee helm - The boat's tendency to turn away from the wind in light wind - too little force
in the mainsail and too much weight to windward. correction: flatten boat (move crew
weight leeward), tiller to leeward, make mainsail fuller/deeper and put daggerboard all
the way down.
why flatter is better upwind - vertical centerboard/daggerboard functions best at
preventing sideways slipping, most direct course toward windward destination
heel in light air upwind - little heel allows for better steering and optimal sail shape to
avoid luffing
side-to-side position downwind - daggerboard up partway, heel to windward to reduce
friction; skipper on windward rail and crew adjusting to maintain consistent windward
heel
fore and aft position upwind - too far forward: pearl in waves. too far aft: stern
sinks/displaces more water. skipper aft of mainsheet&crew shoulder to shoulder. light
wind: slightly forward better. heavy wind/big waves: farther aft to keep bow up.
, fore and aft position downwind - higher wind: shift weight back to keep bow out of
water, then move forward to sail upwind.
hiking - anticipate changes and adjust weight placement beforehand. flat boat
decreases sideways slippage for more efficient windward travel. straight legged hiking =
center of gravity farthest possible to windward
close hauled sailing - position defined as closest to the wind
high or low close hauled course - high: pointing closer to the wind, maybe edging No-
go zone. depletes good wind flow and is slow. low: almost close reach position.
increases wind power & faster but sacrifice pointing toward wind.
the groove - course between the high and low side of close hauled. best speed and
highest pointing windward angle. telltales streaming, correct heel, neutral helm.
ease-hike-trim method - in a puff: ease sail slightly, hike boat flat, trim sails back in to
regain power once in control.
feathering - boat heels and rounds up, which causes slowing, due to a puff. feathering
is where you steer toward no-go zone, sails luff slightly, and skipper heads down to
groove while exiting puff.
puffs - increase in winds velocity. ease mainsail & feather, anticipate by hiking
lulls - period of decreased wind velocity. prepare by moving inboard/leeward & ease
sails while footing
footing - powers up the boat while sailing close hauled, ie when going over big wave or
light wind. ease sails slightly and head down to lower side of groove/close reach
drag - increased friction of the boat moving through the water; unequal pressure from
water flowing past rudder.
roll tack - quickens pace at which bow passes through no-go zone and improves
acceleration once boat has tacked
jibing downwind - faster is better. put daggerboard all the way down prior to jibe. slightly
more tension on vang.
s-turn jibe - safety jibe in heavy wind. counteracts rounding up by steering back down
slightly into the jibe without jibing again.
roll jibing - faster, more efficient jibe that minimizes use of rudder and is most effective
in light/medium air.
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