ATSC 113 Final Study Exam Questions
with Correct Answers
Three main factors affecting wave formation: - Answer-Wind velocity, fetch, duration.
Wind velocity: - Answer-Speed of the wind.
Fetch: - Answer-Distance over water wind can blow uninterrupted.
Duration: - Answer-Amount of time wind blows over water.
If wind speed is slow, waves will always be _________, regardless of fetch or duration. -
Answer-Slow
Drag: - Answer-Frictional force acting against relative motion of one fluid with respect to
another fluid.
Describe drag between ocean and air. - Answer-Texture of the ocean surface can alter
the way wind moves over water, and the drag produced.
Crest: - Answer-Highest point of wave.
Trough: - Answer-Lowest point of wave.
Wavelength: - Answer-Distance from one crest/trough to the next.
Wave height. - Answer-Distance from crest to trough, or vice versa.
Wave steepness: - Answer-Ratio of wave height to wavelength.
Amplitude: - Answer-Distance from centre of wave to crest/trough.
Wave period: - Answer-Distance for one wavelength to pass a certain point.
Confused sea: - Answer-Area of large and small waves of different wavelengths moving
in all directions, caused by waves mixing with pre-existing ones.
Wave train: - Answer-Group of waves travelling in same direction.
Faster waves have: - Answer-Longer wavelength, shorter wave period.
Waves in a group are dynamic. Describe how they travel. - Answer-Smaller waves in
lead/end, larger waves in middle.
, Group velocity: - Answer-Speed at which a group of waves travels across water.
Phase velocity: - Answer-Apparent speed of each wave in the group. (Typically double
group velocity. )
Capillary waves: - Answer-Waves created by small amounts of water being displaced by
small winds. Capillarity (surface tension) is the restoring force.
Gravity waves: - Answer-Waves created by larger winds. Gravity is the restoring force,
hence the name.
Which is bigger, capillary or gravity waves? - Answer-Gravity waves are bigger.
Swell: - Answer-Waves formed by distant storms and wind, capable of travelling long
distances across ocean without great loss of energy.
Great circle routes/paths: - Answer-Shortest path that swell takes when travelling across
Earth's surface.
Destructive interference: - Answer-Crest of a wave, trough of a wave hit, cancelling out.
Creates weaker waves.
Constructive interference: - Answer-Crest of a wave, crest of a wave hit, adding up,
creating bigger wave with higher energy.
Rogue wave: - Answer-Large wave that is product of constructive interference.
Tsunami: - Answer-Big wave resulting from seismic events.
Can large waves form even when wind speeds are small? - Answer-No.
If wind velocity is constant, large waves will form when: - Answer-Fetch increases and
duration increases.
Are large waves that form due to constructive interference tsunamis? - Answer-No
(tsunamis formed by seismic activity. )
As waves get closer to shore, _________ decreases and _____________ increases. -
Answer-Wavelength, wave height.
At what wave steepness (ratio of wave height to wavelength) does a wave break? -
Answer-1:7
Two factors in breaking waves are: - Answer-Swell, wave steepness.
with Correct Answers
Three main factors affecting wave formation: - Answer-Wind velocity, fetch, duration.
Wind velocity: - Answer-Speed of the wind.
Fetch: - Answer-Distance over water wind can blow uninterrupted.
Duration: - Answer-Amount of time wind blows over water.
If wind speed is slow, waves will always be _________, regardless of fetch or duration. -
Answer-Slow
Drag: - Answer-Frictional force acting against relative motion of one fluid with respect to
another fluid.
Describe drag between ocean and air. - Answer-Texture of the ocean surface can alter
the way wind moves over water, and the drag produced.
Crest: - Answer-Highest point of wave.
Trough: - Answer-Lowest point of wave.
Wavelength: - Answer-Distance from one crest/trough to the next.
Wave height. - Answer-Distance from crest to trough, or vice versa.
Wave steepness: - Answer-Ratio of wave height to wavelength.
Amplitude: - Answer-Distance from centre of wave to crest/trough.
Wave period: - Answer-Distance for one wavelength to pass a certain point.
Confused sea: - Answer-Area of large and small waves of different wavelengths moving
in all directions, caused by waves mixing with pre-existing ones.
Wave train: - Answer-Group of waves travelling in same direction.
Faster waves have: - Answer-Longer wavelength, shorter wave period.
Waves in a group are dynamic. Describe how they travel. - Answer-Smaller waves in
lead/end, larger waves in middle.
, Group velocity: - Answer-Speed at which a group of waves travels across water.
Phase velocity: - Answer-Apparent speed of each wave in the group. (Typically double
group velocity. )
Capillary waves: - Answer-Waves created by small amounts of water being displaced by
small winds. Capillarity (surface tension) is the restoring force.
Gravity waves: - Answer-Waves created by larger winds. Gravity is the restoring force,
hence the name.
Which is bigger, capillary or gravity waves? - Answer-Gravity waves are bigger.
Swell: - Answer-Waves formed by distant storms and wind, capable of travelling long
distances across ocean without great loss of energy.
Great circle routes/paths: - Answer-Shortest path that swell takes when travelling across
Earth's surface.
Destructive interference: - Answer-Crest of a wave, trough of a wave hit, cancelling out.
Creates weaker waves.
Constructive interference: - Answer-Crest of a wave, crest of a wave hit, adding up,
creating bigger wave with higher energy.
Rogue wave: - Answer-Large wave that is product of constructive interference.
Tsunami: - Answer-Big wave resulting from seismic events.
Can large waves form even when wind speeds are small? - Answer-No.
If wind velocity is constant, large waves will form when: - Answer-Fetch increases and
duration increases.
Are large waves that form due to constructive interference tsunamis? - Answer-No
(tsunamis formed by seismic activity. )
As waves get closer to shore, _________ decreases and _____________ increases. -
Answer-Wavelength, wave height.
At what wave steepness (ratio of wave height to wavelength) does a wave break? -
Answer-1:7
Two factors in breaking waves are: - Answer-Swell, wave steepness.
