Samenvatting
Semester Exam Textiles Summary
- Instelling
- Hogeschool Van Amsterdam (HvA)
A summary of all lectures and additional information from Fashion & Textile Technologies.
[Meer zien]Voorbeeld 3 van de 26 pagina's
Voorbeeld 3 van de 26 pagina's
In winkelwagengesponsord bericht van onze partner
Voorbeeld van de inhoud
Semester Exam Textiles – SummaryTextiles
Lecture 1 – Yarn Constructions
Yarn Construction
- Open-end spinning = low quality
- Rim/ring spinning = high quality
Yarns – assembly of fibres or filaments having a substantial length and relatively small cross-
section, with or without twist, being the end product of a spinning and winding process.
Single Yarns
- Staple fibres: (semi-)combed, ring spun, compact
- Filaments: multifilament (flat, twisted, textured) or monofilament
- Fancy: colour, lustre, structure
- Core-spun & wrapped: yarns with core and wrapper structure
Folded Yarns
- Folded (plied) or cabled, fancy, core-spun & wrapped
- Made in a single process step, combining 2, 3 or more (dis)similar yarns into one
- E.g two fold or two ply, a.s.o.
Cabled Yarns
- Require more than one twisting stage
- Two or more folded (dis)similar yarns may be twisted together to form a cabled yarn
- E.g. two fold combined with threefold, a.s.o.
Spun Yarns
- Made by mechanical assembly and twisting together of staple fibres
- Different spinning processes used according to fibre type and length
Filament Yarns
- Made by assembly of continuous filaments, harvested from nature or formed by
extrusion of man-made chemicals through a spinneret
- Multifilament – made from multiple filaments, flat or twisted
- Can be textured (more voluminous) by introducing permanent crimp to filaments
- Monofilament – single continuous filament, spun from single-hole spinneret
Twist
- Z twist – direction inclination of fibres is to the right when the yarn is held vertically
- S twist – direction inclination of fibres is to the left when the yarn is held vertically
- Twist level – number of turns of twist per unit of length
Lecture 2 – 3 or more yarn systems
1
,Cross-section of filaments – depends on extrusion process, as there are various shapes of
holes in the spinneret.
What is the use of profiled fibres and microfibers?
- Profiled Fibres – Coolmax: moisture management system, can move perspiration
away from the body, allowing wearer to feel coolerMicrofibres – e.g. Nike: improved
moisture (perspiration) wicking properties
Bi-component fibre types: sheath core/side by side/sea-islands
Micro fibres/filaments
- Finer than one decitex
- Thin fibres that can give special properties to fabrics: soft,
supple, dense (compact)
Textured filaments
- You do this with a yarn of course, not with one single
filament
- Purpose/result: making it bulky or voluminous, stretchy, or set= stretch + stabilized
Complex Woven Fabrics
- Fabrics with 3, 4 or 5 yarn systems
- Adding yarn systems to the normal 2-yarn system
- E.g. lance/broché – has a third yarn that forms a certain design/pattern
- Pile fabrics – woven, cut or uncut
Lancé fabrics (3 y.s.)
- LOCAL pattern with extra warp/weft yarns
- Uncut: long floats at the back from pattern to pattern, often in woven labels
- Cut: floats at the back are cut away (‘clip-spot’)
Broché (3 y.s.)
- Locally weft extra yarn
- Looks like an embroidery, but is woven in
- Made on a special (swivel) loom
Woven terry (3 y.s.)
- Loop piles by extra warp yarn
- Improved thermal insulation and moisture absorption
- Names: woven terry cloth, terry velours Don’t confuse with knitted terry
- Commonly used for towels and bathrobes
- Loops can be formed on one or two sides of the fabric
- Terry velour is produced by cropping and brushing loops to get a velvet appearance
Cut pile fabrics
2
, - Third yarn system: cut fibre pile on the surface
- Velvet (extra warp), velveteen (extra weft), ribcord/corded velveteen (extra weft)
- Piles always at the same warp yarn, forming vertical lines (wales)
- W pile or V pile: W better quality wise, better connected to the basic weave
- Nap direction: brushed fabrics don’t stand straight up but have a very obvious nap
direction, colour shades, sensitive to angle of light/contact
- ‘Ausbrenners’/burnt-out velvet – locally burnt away with chemicals that burn away
several yarns
Double cloths (3/4/5 y.s.)
1. Self-stitched: Two sides look different, can be warp or weft stitches,
mainly used with jackets and coats
2. Interchanging: both sides have the same, but opposite pattern
3. Centre-stitched: 2 fabrics are bonded by an extra yarn system. Full, yet still soft &
supple, for reversible garments.
Colour woven fabrics – can be e.g. baker’s check
Lecture 3 – Fancy Yarns and Knit Constructions
Fancy yarns
- Often determine fabric name
- Can be: colour, structure, or lustre effects
- The effects can occur because of spinning, twisting or folding
Colour Effects
- Mélange/Mixture yarns: mixing fibres of different colours in spinning process
- Mouliné yarns: folding different coloured yarns with different fibres and dyeing
behaviour
- Jaspé yarns: twisting rovings of different colours
- Ombré yarn: yarn is locally (dip)dyed, runs from light to dark
- Vigoureux yarn: printing onto rovings or yarns
Structure effects
- Slub yarn: long stretched thicknesses which give the yarn a linen look
- Bourette yarn (noppengaren): small dots of (coloured) fibres are added to the fibre
mass of the carding web and fixated when twisting the yarn
- Boutonne/knob yarn (knopengaren): one yarn is locally fed with more speed than the
ground yarn. ‘Knobs’ arise, and they are fixated with a thinner 3rd yarn.
- Bouclé yarn: loop effect arises by feeding two yarns with different speeds when
folding. The effect is fixated with a 3rd yarn.
- Frisé yarn: thick and thin yarns are folded. Wavy appearance, might even give loops.
- Chenille yarn: velvet like. Fluffy with piles poking out.
Lustre effects
- Lustre and glitter yarns: mixing glittery yarns or fibres by folding
- Metallized polyester films (lurex)
Core yarns (not fancy!)
3
Voordelen van het kopen van samenvattingen bij Stuvia op een rij:
Verzekerd van kwaliteit door reviews
Stuvia-klanten hebben meer dan 700.000 samenvattingen beoordeeld. Zo weet je zeker dat je de beste documenten koopt!
Snel en makkelijk kopen
Je betaalt supersnel en eenmalig met iDeal, creditcard of Stuvia-tegoed voor de samenvatting. Zonder lidmaatschap.
Focus op de essentie
Samenvattingen worden geschreven voor en door anderen. Daarom zijn de samenvattingen altijd betrouwbaar en actueel. Zo kom je snel tot de kern!
Veelgestelde vragen
Wat krijg ik als ik dit document koop?
Je krijgt een PDF, die direct beschikbaar is na je aankoop. Het gekochte document is altijd, overal en oneindig toegankelijk via je profiel.
Tevredenheidsgarantie: hoe werkt dat?
Onze tevredenheidsgarantie zorgt ervoor dat je altijd een studiedocument vindt dat goed bij je past. Je vult een formulier in en onze klantenservice regelt de rest.
Van wie koop ik deze samenvatting?
Stuvia is een marktplaats, je koop dit document dus niet van ons, maar van verkoper sannelejeune. Stuvia faciliteert de betaling aan de verkoper.
Zit ik meteen vast aan een abonnement?
Nee, je koopt alleen deze samenvatting voor €6,49. Je zit daarna nergens aan vast.
Is Stuvia te vertrouwen?
4,6 sterren op Google & Trustpilot (+1000 reviews)
Afgelopen 30 dagen zijn er 53068 samenvattingen verkocht
Opgericht in 2010, al 14 jaar dé plek om samenvattingen te kopen