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MAR 200 Exam 3 Questions & Answers 2024/2025
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MAR 200 Exam 3 Questions & Answers 2024/2025 what are the three types of waves? - ANSWERS- Longitudinal (compressional), ex. sound - transverse (moves up and down to move energy) ex. sine wave - Orbital waves (move back and forth and up and down) ex. ocean waves 3 types of wave-type dis...

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  • October 17, 2024
  • 25
  • 2024/2025
  • Exam (elaborations)
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  • mar 200 exam 3 questions answers

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MAR 200 Exam 3 Questions & Answers
2024/2025

what are the three types of waves? - ANSWERS- Longitudinal (compressional), ex. sound

- transverse (moves up and down to move energy)

ex. sine wave

- Orbital waves (move back and forth and up and down)

ex. ocean waves



3 types of wave-type disturbances - ANSWERS- air-water-ocean waves

- air-air-atmosphere waves

- water-water-internal waves (density)



in waves, energy moves ____ the substance, but it doesn't usually _____ the substance. Water does not
_____ in a wave - ANSWERS- through

- move

- move



what are the four directions of ocean waves? - ANSWERS1.You get pulled back

2.You get pulled up on crest

3.Moves you down and forward

4.Moves you down and backward



You don't physically ____ in an ocean wave, therefore Coriolis _____ modify waves. where is there an
exception to this? - ANSWERS- move

- does. not

- at the shore

,wave height - ANSWERS-height of wave from lowest point to highest point



wave crest - ANSWERShighest point of a wave



Trough - ANSWERSlowest point of a wave



wavelength - ANSWERSdistance between any two consecutive waves along the same spot on each wave



wave period - ANSWERSone full wave, the amount of time it takes to go from one crest to the next crest.
this is measured in seconds



wave frequency - ANSWERSwave period, but "per time", 1/s



what dictates when a wave will break? - ANSWERSwave steepness



define wave steepness - ANSWERSwave height / wave length



wave steepness puts a max on the height of a wave. what steepness means a wave will break? -
ANSWERSwhen steepness (H/L ratio) is greater than 1/7, the wave will break



why can't we calculate wave speed as length / time? - ANSWERSbecause waves are orbital, not linear



what do we use to calculate wave speed? what is the equation? what does g equal? what does L equal?
d = ? why is there 2pi? - ANSWERS- celerity

C = sqrt (gl/2pi tanh(2pid/L))

g = 9.81 M/S^2

L = wavelength

d = depth

2pi because wave moves as orbital

, define a deep water wave - ANSWERSWhen depth is greater than ½ wavelength (d> L/2)



when it's a deep water wave, what is the celerity equation simplified to? why? - ANSWERS-When we
meet this criteria, tanh(2pid/L)= 1

-Left with sqrt.(gL/2pi)

-know that when the numerator is relatively big and denominator relatively small, approaches infinity, or
is just really large. Hyperbolic tan of a really large number is just 1



define a shallow water wave - ANSWERSwhen depth is less than 1/20 of L



when we have a shallow water wave, what is the equation simplified to? why? - ANSWERS-This means
the numerator is really small, and the denominator is really big. Approaches zero

-When L is really big, tanh(x)= x

Simplifies to C= squr.(gd)



speed of a shallow water wave only depends on _____. speed of a deep water wave depends on ______.
- ANSWERS- depth

- wavelength



- where do waves come from?

- waves that flatten out due to surface tension are called ______.

- waves that grow bigger and bigger and eventually flatten out are called ______.

- these two actions are called ______. - ANSWERS- wind

- capillary waves

- gravity waves

- restorative forces



Wave size depends on: - ANSWERS1.Speed of wind (velocity)

2.Fetch: the area over which the wind blows

3.Duration of wind

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