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Coasts Revision Notes Geography A2-1

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Completed revision notes that go by the A-Level Geography specification for CCEA

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  • June 12, 2022
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  • 2021/2022
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Coasts Notes:


Waves: Created by the transfer of energy from wind to the surface of the sea. As the strength of the
wind increases, the wave size and frictional drag also increase.

Wave energy depends on 3 factors:

 Wind velocity
 Period of time over which wind has blown
 Fetch- the maximum distance open water over which wind has blown (large fetch = higher
energy waves

Swell Waves: Travelled by distant storms

 Low height, gentle steepness, long wavelength, long period

Sea Waves: Local waves caused by wind

 Tall heigh, steep, short wavelength, short period (higher energy)

Wave Height: vertical distance between the wave crest and trough

Wave Period: time taken for a wave to travel 1 wavelength

Wave Velocity: the speed of movement of a wave

Wave Steepness: ration of the height to the wavelength (H/L)

Wave Energy: the energy possessed by a wave in deep water

Waves in Deep Water:

 When depth is > than ¼ length of wave
 Wind drag on the sea surface cases the water to move in an orbital motion
 Waves are surface features- the size of the orbit decreases with depth

Waves in Shallow Water:

 When the water depth is <1/4 of the wavelength
 Friction with seabed increase
 As the base of the wave slows down, the circular oscillations become elliptical

, Wave Refraction:

 As waves approach an irregular coastline they are refracted
e.g. they become increasingly parallel to the coastline
 The waves nearer to the shore slow down due to friction drag
on the seabed, whereas those in the deeper water continue to
move quickly
 The causes the wave to bend
 This process also created longshore currents which carries
sediment inshore from the headland



Constructive Wave: A low wave that is created in a calm weather and are less powerful than
destructive waves. They break on the shoer and deposit material, building up beaches. Their swash is
stronger than their backwash.

Destructive Waves: Created in storm conditions, from big, strong waves when the wind is powerful
and has been blown for a long time. They occur when wave energy is high, and the wave has
travelled over a long fetch. They break down the coast as they have a stronger backwash than swash



Sediment Cell:

 Also known as the littoral cell system
 Model of study of process and patterns of a section of coast
 Each cell is a self-contained unit where inputs and outputs are balanced,
and sediment is transferred within the cell
 E.g. from the River Tyne to St Abbs Head in the UK



Beaches and Bays:

 Beaches are depositional landforms which are found in low
energy intertidal zones at coasts.
 Made up of many different materials e.g. sand, silt, gravel,
shingle, and rocks
 Formed by many different processes such as:
o Long Shore Drift- sediment moves in a diagonal movement in the direction of the
prevailing wind
o Cliff Erosion- hydraulic action knocking off particles
o Material from nearby rivers and offshore sources such as constructive waves
 Berms are also formed on beaches- a terrace of a beach that has formed in the backshore,
above the water level at high tide
 Shape of the beach is constantly changing from weather, movement of water, type of wave
(constructive = build up of beach and deconstructive = beach broken down)
 Constructive waves are common in the summer whereas destructive in the winter month
 Regularly located within bays due to the shelter they provide from strong winds, reducing
destructive waves occurring

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