WAVE CREST
This is the top of the wave as water in a wave rises causes crest
WAVE TROUGH
As water in a wave falls
WAVE HEIGHT
Distance between the wave crest and trough
WAVE PERIOD
Time between waves
WAVE FREQUENCY
Number of waves that break on a beach in a given period of time
WAVE STEEP...
This is the top of the wave as water in a wave rises causes crest
WAVE TROUGH
As water in a wave falls
WAVE HEIGHT
Distance between the wave crest and trough
WAVE PERIOD
Time between waves
WAVE FREQUENCY
Number of waves that break on a beach in a given period of time
WAVE STEEPNESS
WAVE HEIGHT/WAVE LENGTH cannot exceed 1:7(this is the point at which the wave breaks)
WAVE ENERGY
In deep water the energy of a wave is proportional to the wave length X by the wave
height(squared).This means that even small increase in wave length can produce a large increase in
wave energy.
WAVE ENERGY IS DIRECTLY RELATED TO WAVE HEIGHT THE ENERGY OF IS RELEASED WHEN IT BREAKS
SWASH
The body of foaming water that rushes up the beach when the wave breaks.It obtains its energy from
the energy released by the breaking wave
BACKWASH
The water which returns down the beach after a wave has broken
ABANDON THE LINE
The strategic withdrawal of human occupation in areas of high risk.Use of less expensive and sustainable
methods to "abandon the line" of the coast. often unpopular with farmers and property owners i.e.
national trust policy Studland bay
,ABRASION
The wearing away of the shoreline by sediment carried by waves.Also erosion by friction scraping,
scouring and rubbing of load in contact with banks and bed.
ACCRETION
The accumulation of marine sediments.Where deposition exceeds erosion.
ADVANCE THE LINE
This involves active intervention to produce a defence line that is seaward in some way of existing line.
This would usually involve some form of reclamation, the construction of offshore breakwater or similar.
ARCH
Differential erosion of adjacent caves opening in the middle i.e. durdle door. Last 50 to 100 years.
ATTRITION
Particles are reduced in size and rounded off by colliding with one another as they are washed in the
waves, erosion grinds down the cliff fall material
BAR
Coarse grained deposit of sediment extending across the mouth of the bay sometimes reaching the
other side and sealing off the entrance
BERM
Low hill of sand or gravel that forms at the upper limit of the swash.They are short term features and are
removed by successive tides and storms.
ATTRITION
Particles are reduced in size and rounded off by colliding with one another as they are washed in the
waves.Erosion grinds down the cliff-fall material.movement of water back towards the sea after a wave
has broken.
BEACH NOURISHMENT
Sand and shingle brought from elsewhere are added to beaches to maintain their breadth and depth to
protect from erosion in a natural way i.e. hengistbury.
BLOW-HOLE
A chimney or pipe leading from a cave up through cliff to the surface.Caused by erosion and often
exploitation of joints in the geology.
, BREACHING
Failure of defences allowing flooding by tidal or storm action
CHAR
An island formed from silt deposited in a delta, the land is about at sea level, it is very fertile and attracts
settlers desperate for land,however it can easily be washed away by monsoon floods and cyclones.even
if the cyclones do not destroy the chars they flood them with salt water which reduces its fertility.
CONSTRUCTIVE WAVES
Low frequency of 6-8 waves per minute waves which have elliptical water motion,with powerful swash
and weak backwash, they build deposition, they construct the shoreline THESE ARE LOW ENERGY
WAVES.
CONCORDANT GEOLOGY
The alignment of geological outcrops which are parallel to the coastline, i.e. dorset coast lulworth
CORRASION
Erosion by friction of load in contact with banks and bed AKA ABRASION
CORROSION
Includes the dissolving of carbonate rock i.e. limestone in sea water and the evaporation of salt crystals
which expand on formation and help the rock to disintegrate.
CUSP
Crescent-shaped embayments developed on beaches of mixed sediments
CUSPATE FORELAND
Is a triangular accumulation of sand and or gravel located along the coastline.This feature is formed by
longshore drift from opposing directions i.e. Dungeness
DEFENCE LINE
The crest of a sea wall/revetment(man made defences) or the crest of dunes or the cliff edge(natural
defences)
DELTAS
Form when the amount of sediment delivered at the mouth of a river exceeds the amount removed by
waves and trial currents.
DESTRUCTIVE WAVES
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