Summary
Summary Coastal Environments (Waves) - CIE Geography As & A Level
- Institution
- CIE
Includes: Formation, Terminology, Wave Breakage (with diagram), Wave Types, Factors Influencing Size/Power
[Show more]
Connected book
Book Title:
Author(s):
- Edition:
- ISBN:
- Edition:
2 reviews
By: nimrakhan • 4 year ago
By: sunnyli1 • 3 year ago
Content preview
Thursday, 10 January 2019COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS - WAVES
• Waves contain a lot of energy & are one of the key agents of change at a coastline
• Waves are formed by the frictional drag of the wind as it blows across open water
• Therefore, wave direction is a reflection of wind direction
HOW IS A WAVE FORMED?
1. Wind causes friction at the surface of the sea
2. This causes a swell - a wave is created
3. Energy from the wind causes the water to move in circular motions - forming a wave
orbit
4. The water doesn’t actually move, the energy waves pass through the water
FACTORS INFLUENCING SIZE & POWER OF THE WAVE:
- Strength/speed of the wind - stronger wind means greater friction & more powerful
waves
- Length of fetch - this is the distance has travelled uninterrupted. A large fetch generates
a larger wave
- Length of time wind blows in the same direction - wind stability generates larger waves
WAVE TERMINOLOGY:
- Wave Crest = as the water in a wave rises, it forms the wave crest. The top of the wave
- Wave Trough = as the water in a wave falls, it forms the wave trough. This is the low point
between 2 wave crests
- Wave Height = the difference in height between the wave crest and wave trough
- Wave Length = the distance between 2 wave crests. Waves not usually evenly spaced.
- Wave Period = the time taken for a wave to travel through one wave length
- Wave Velocity = the speed of movement of the wave crest. Calculated by dividing the
average wave height by average wave period
- Wave Frequency = the number of waves that break on the beach in a given time
- Wave Steepness = calculated by: wave height/wave length. This ration cannot exceed
1:7 (0.14) as at this point the wave will break
1
The benefits of buying summaries with Stuvia:
Guaranteed quality through customer reviews
Stuvia customers have reviewed more than 700,000 summaries. This how you know that you are buying the best documents.
Quick and easy check-out
You can quickly pay through credit card for the summaries. There is no membership needed.
Focus on what matters
Your fellow students write the study notes themselves, which is why the documents are always reliable and up-to-date. This ensures you quickly get to the core!
Frequently asked questions
What do I get when I buy this document?
You get a PDF, available immediately after your purchase. The purchased document is accessible anytime, anywhere and indefinitely through your profile.
Satisfaction guarantee: how does it work?
Our satisfaction guarantee ensures that you always find a study document that suits you well. You fill out a form, and our customer service team takes care of the rest.
Who am I buying these notes from?
Stuvia is a marketplace, so you are not buying this document from us, but from seller zanyafechner. Stuvia facilitates payment to the seller.
Will I be stuck with a subscription?
No, you only buy these notes for £5.49. You're not tied to anything after your purchase.
Can Stuvia be trusted?
4.6 stars on Google & Trustpilot (+1000 reviews)
52510 documents were sold in the last 30 days
Founded in 2010, the go-to place to buy revision notes and other study material for 14 years now