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TBB Business A - Summary of all Lectures

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A summary of including in depth information of all Business A lectures.

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  • 20 maart 2018
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  • 2016/2017
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TBB Business A – Summary of all
Lectures
Lecture 1 – The Context of Fashion
Diana Vreeland: “The trick is to give people what they never knew they
wanted.”
The fashion professional needs knowledge of the context: the social,
economic, cultural and political areas that you work in.

Fashion as applied arts: there’s always a consumer  if it’s all about art, you
might forget about the context, might not sell well

Contexts
- Historical
- The uses of clothing
- Economy
- The language of fashion
- Geography of fashion

1. Historical Context
- Fashion uses history as a source of inspiration
- You only know later what trends turned out to be important

2. The uses of clothing: know your product!
- Fashion as adornment? (decorating your body)
- Fashion as protection? (against weather)
- Nostalgia: unrest in the world (depression, war ), people start
longing to the old days
- ‘Anthropology of clothing’: it nowadays shapes the individual,
whereas before there was a clear distinction between men and
women  shifting and blurring ‘codes’

More clothing codes than you think: businessmen wear suit & tie, you
don’t wear only underwear to school

In general, there are 8 functions of clothing
1. Purely functional: utility (lots of changes in fashion had a functional
reason: mobility, (mental) comfort)
2. Modesty: covers up nudity and ‘defects’
3. Immodesty: sexual attraction, ‘men act, women appear’ (but codes
are shifting)
4. Adornment/aesthetics: often not in line with other functions
5. Symbolic differentiation: differentiate yourself from others  culture,
religion, profession, but also status and luxury
6. Show affiliation: dress alike to belong to a certain group

, 7. Psychological self-enhancement: creation of the individual/who we
are
8. Modernism

General: you are assumed to have divergent ideas when you don’t
conform to accepted styles  however, the more divergent the style is, the
more fashion likes it

Opposite: a fashion victim is desperate to belong and lacks in personality
and taste

Apparently the worst thing that can happen in fashion: wearing the same
outfit as someone else  has to do with clothing being so close to your skin,
you create your own personality with it

Difference between fashion and clothing
What is fashion?
- Western invention
- ‘here and now’,
- Change (without change no fashion)
- Succession of styles
- Even uniforms can’t escape fashion
- Differs per community
- Everything in western society is shaped by fashion
- Clothing behavior is shaped by fashion
- No one can escape fashion: it’s not possible to ‘not follow fashion’
- Factor time is crucial: declares styles out of fashion but also recycles
them
- Clothing that is modern in the opinion of the viewer/wearer

Clothing – covers the body and is regarded as being functional by the
wearer  uniforms are not fashion!

Fashion is a cultural phenomenon, aesthetic medium for expressing ideas,
desires and values that circulate in society. A personal performing art that
says you’re from the present.  quote by Elizabeth Wilson

Is there non-functional, non-fashion clothing?  Only clothing used in rituals

Just as important: practical criteria
a. Price: for most consumers the most important criterium  last 20
years prices of fashion have decreased (fast fashion)
b. Quality: fabrics, finish, high expectations of quality
c. Fit: subject to fashion, can be a way of differentiating market
d. Comfort: hello good buy
e. Relevance: clothing has to fit lifestyle, work and hobbies
f. Brand: loyalty, fans, unique qualities of the brand
g. Ease/service: people have less time and patience

, Of importance as well
- Presentation of stores, consumers won’t look at clothing that’s badly
displayed
- Home shopping by internet have gained market share: a whole new
culture of ordering from home, trying them on at home and sending
them back
- Response from shops: making shopping as pleasant as possible,
creating experience
- The consumer wants a wide range of clothes, unless they trust you
on a good selection
EPOS – Electronic Point-of-Sale
Lecture 2 – Introduction Lecture by Susie
Breuer
Key-dates calendar – a calendar of development and production

Fashion – what’s the attraction?
- Business: profit, selling things
- Builds communities: blogs, style, design, collective of designers
- Embraces new technology: quicker, 3D printing, dyeing methods
- Invites debate: models, social responsibility of manufacturers
- Legislation: looking for new ways to improve conditions in factories

Flip side of fashion… it pollutes the planet!  dyes, much water used,
clothing thrown away

Teams involved
- Not about 1 person! It’s about a team of hundreds making it work
- Designer, developer, sales, shipping, PR, etc.

Seasons – number of collections a year
- No longer fixed seasons: the whole industry is a lot faster
- From monthly to bi-annually
- Not about creativity anymore, but about providing extra clothes

The ANTI-fashion calendar by StudyNY
- Allows monthly deliveries
- Seasonally focused collection
- Filling samples rooms
- More controlled cashflow

Business Models
- Wholesale selling to other stores for their customer base and
further reach, little control over garments/merchandise
- Retail selling in own stores/websites, more control over pricing,
stocks and space
- Mass customization custom/bespoke on big scale, hybrid of mass
market + custom

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