Fibres and fabrics
Weaving
Plain weave Over and under alternate yarn
Satin weaving One wrap passes over four or more weft yarn in
staggered pattern
Sateen weave Weft yarn passes over and under four wrap yarns
Twill weave Form diagonal lines across surface
Dobby weave Small regular repeated designs or geometric
figures
Jacquard weave Different loom that creates complex pattern
Pile weave Pile formed by interlacing additional wrap and
weft yarns between
Fabric properties
1. Visual and tactile properties
What you can see
What you can touch
Draping quality
Soft, silky and hangs well
Satin weaves, weft knits of wool, cotton, cotton blends, silk, acetate
Used for: feminine blouse, men’s evening shirts and curtains
Colourfastness
How quickly a fabric loses or retains colour.
Syntenic is good
Natural materials leach
2. Durability
How hard wearing
Polyester, cotton and linen is most durable
Gabardine, cotton and polyester with a twill weave are for work
overalls
Denim is durable cotton
Strength
Fibre or yarn: stretched to test
, Nylon: strongest synthetic
Cotton or linen: strongest natural
Lyocell: strongest regenerated cellulose
Can be improved by tight weaving and spinning (sportwear, curtains
and upholstery)
Abrasion resistance
When two surfaces rub together like collars or elbows
Satin and sateen are not good at this
Wool, cotton and viscose are good
Pilling
Small balls on surface of fabric
Fabrics can be treated to prevent
Wool, lyocell, viscose, acrylic all pill (blend with nylon to reduce)
Sunlight resistance
Choose polyester, nylon and bamboo
Choose wisely with fabrics that are exposed
3. Comfort
Physical comfort
Elasticity
Ability for fabric to return to natural shape.
Active wear is blended with elastane and anti-microbial and wicking
properties of other fabrics
Dimensional stability
The fabric retain its size and shape after washing
Weft and twill knits tend to skew
Absorbency
Take up moisture
Natural and regenerated are absorbent
Good for towels, underwear and active wear
Heat conductivity
How well heat is passed through and on
Good heat conductor: cellulose fibres
Heat retention
Ability to resist heat
Wool and acrylic retain body heat
Closely woven or layered fabrics: suitable for cold weather
4. Maintenance
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